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HANDBOOK OF MAINTENANCE AND UPGRADES (some additions on Nov. 30,
(in 3 parts-- 145 pages total, MS Word 97 files, download and print-it-yourself)
Section 1: MaintenanceRhodes Reliant - Offshore 40 Sisterships (alphabetical list by boat name)
Section 2: Upgrades (last page is front cover -- whiteout the page number)
Section 3: Table of Contents (You may have to correct the page numbers)
Pneumatic bilge pump switch
I like to have no electrical wiring in the bilge. It always very vulnerable and hard to service. Here is a pneumatic bilge pump switch that moves electrical parts high above the water:
pneumatic bilge pump switch
Sealing cabin top leaks
Because of the composite construction (fiberglass, teak), sealing cabin top leaks is a persistent challenge. Here are some subtle modifications that may help in sealing places better.
From: "Carol Baardsen" <email@example.com>
Dear Andreas and Ben,
I am a little unclear if your are asking about emergency rudder or emergency
tiller so I give you both. Emergency rudder is part of the HYDROVANE windvane
self steering, built by:
Hydrovane Yacht Equipment Ltd
117 Bramcote Lane
Nottingham NG9 4EU
Nottingham (0602) 256181
The independent rudder that is part of this system is big, and strong
enough to steer the boat if the main steering is inoperative. For any jury
rigged rudder to function, sucessfully, the main rudder must be Imobilized
or removed. you may imobilize the main rudder with a double line tied through
the aperature with a larkshead. The ends should be tensioned and
secured on the quarters. Alternativly the quadrant or tiller can
be jammed with wooden wedges. Opposed pipe wrenches on ruddershaft
can also be wedged into place. Hydrovane is an excellent system for
these boats considering our appendages and long overhangs.
Our rudders compose a small fraction of the vertical surface. The rudders are forward and shaded by the keel and raked at an extreme angle. The hydrovane being located on the transom overcomes these difficulties nicely and steers the boat in the most difficult conditions. It is clearly the best choice for our type of boat. The only disadvantages are that it includes a lot of cast aluminum with
stainless screws, so before installation, it must be totally disassembled and all the threads and screws treated with RESCUE STEEL or ALUMALAST or Chromate or LOC-TITE or similar, to keep the threads form corroding solid. Also it is expensive. Other than that no problem. I'd do it again.
The emergency tiller that came with the boat was a huge steel pipe affair over six feet long and shaped like a swans neck. It was a sloppy fit and consequently wore out after three days. It was useless.
You can make your own better and cheap:
Take 4 plates of mild steel 1/4 x 2" x 8" Weld them along the long edges to form a square tube. Care must be take so that the tube fits tightly onto square head of the rudder shaft. Drill and tap for two large setscrews 3/8" minimum or alternatively drill and weld on nuts to provide the necessary threads. Provide hexed steel capscrews as they are easier than socket heads in rough conditions.
Cut the upper end off at 45 Degrees. Weld on a 10 inch piece of
2 1/2" black pipe so that there is a 135 Degree angle between the
components. Fit with a stout timber handle 4 foot minimum length.
provide points of secure relieving takle on the handle as you might be
using if for a few hours, Galvanize it, next time you have your anchor
chains done. Install the tiller athwartships (laterally) not longitudinally
as this will keep it clear of the wheel and binnacle. Give it a trial
run. I would appreciate your comments.
Sig "Mary T."
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