|The teak boards and window frames are removed and the side has been rough sanded. There are lots of residual holes that need to be filled.|
|I had to remove the block connecting the coamings to access the the back edge of the side wood. Removal of the blocks was not so difficult after the cover was removed (5 screws) -- two screws from inside the cabin, one screw from the outside, and about 8 small screws connecting to the coaming.|
|Once the coaming blocks were off, they could be restored. The thick wood from near the center of the log had some large checks. I sawed them out so they were clean and straight.|
|Then I fitted teak splines
to fill the saw cuts.
In addition, the blocks were originally made by gluing some pieces of wood together. These glue joints had deteriorated and needed to be redone.
|The port light frames were
off, and then I removed the interior grab rail. Then I pried off
the interior plywood with putty knives and a long crowbar to reach into
the far corners. The interior plywood had been bonded to the cabin
sides by some fiberglass mat that had been wetted out with resin.
In many places, however, there was no contact or adhesion between the mat and the cabin sides. See how easily the putty knife slides between the mat and the cabin sides.
|This is the head porthole opening. It was larger than the others because it was an opening port. I have re-sized it to fit the new ports I will install. Note the large number of holes in the cabinside that I had to fill.|
|The interior boards are
1/8" plywood with a teak veneer. I put several coats of epoxy on
the vaneer to protect it, and then several coats of Bristol Finish.
For installation, the boards
were carefully masked with tape, wax paper, and then bubble-wrap.
I made installation boards from 1/2" plywood. MAS epoxy resin with
slow hardener was thickened and put on the cabin sides and on the back
of the new board and all clamped together.