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Happy Birthday, Judy

(Posted 2/25/08)

Sunday was Judy's birthday ... she is, hmm, 39.  In honor of this special day, we planned a fun outing in Philadelphia, beginning with a visit to the Philadelphia Museum of Art to see the Frida Kahlo exhibit, continuing with a cognac at the Ritz Carlton, and ending with a wonderful dinner at Mercato on Spruce Street.

Judy standing in front of several Frida Kahlo prints	One of the giant Kahlo puppets at the top of PMA's grand staircase	A member of the Ballet Folklorico de Mexico performing in the Van Pelt Auditorium

Judy and John enjoying dinner at Mercato, a BYOB on Spruce Street

Mercato

So what about Mercato? Well, we were actually planning to have dinner at Melograno, but after reading some very critical comments on a few foodie blogs, we decided to try Mercato instead.  First off, this small BYOB accepts only early dining reservations (5:00 PM) and is cash only. It also gets very loud when the place fills.  If you can handle those caveats, then you are in for a great dining experience.  We arrived at 5:00 on Sunday and were the first persons to be seated.  We immediately struck up a conversation with one of the wait persons who noticed we were still wearing our Museum of Art pins and wanted to know if we saw the Frida Kahlo exhibit. She used to work at the Museum and currently lives nearby, so she was anxious to hear how we liked it.  She and two other wait staff were friendly, courteous, and professional, constantly surveying the room to see who needed more bread, silverware or water.  If you crave a romantic setting, this is not the place, although it is pleasant and intimate, with an open kitchen, exposed brick walls and large storefront windows.

We opted for the 4 course chef tasting menu at $45 each. It's a great deal if you have room for the enormous meal to follow. We started with the Mercato appetizer, a helping that was more than adequate for a party of three or maybe four.  There were generous amounts of with salami, soppressato, and prosciutto, as well as mini-mozzarella, grilled vegetables, olives and two types of crostini. That was followed by the pasta course, half sized for the tasting menu ... I'd like to see what a full serving looks like!  Judy had the short ribs ragu with tiny ricotta gnocchi, broccoli rabe, succulent and tender de boned short ribs,covered with shaved locatelli cheese. I opted for the braised duck and chestnut papparadelle with roasted root vegetables and grana padano.  Both were delicious.  At this point we were both getting a little full, especially since we brought bottles of California bubbly and cabernet sauvignon. But we plodded on valiantly to the the next course, referred to "Culminare". Judy, being the veal freak she is, went for the parmesan crusted veal cutlets in a white wine demi glace with fingerling potatoes and sauteed spinach.  She loved the dish but couldn't;t finish it all so it was wrapped for dinner the next day.  I, on the other hand, made fast work of my pan seared diver scallops on a bed of wild mushroom and pea risotto.  They were about the sweetest and tenderest scallops I have ever had.  The risotto was a little to garlicky for my taste but prepared well nevertheless. 

Now, as I said, we were getting full after the pasta course, but that didn't stop us from digging into dessert. Judy went for the Maple syrup cheese cake, which was a lovely round of airy cheesiness with marscarpone cheese, and I tried the panna cotta, which again, was airy-light and delicious.   All-in-all, a thoroughly satisfying experience.  We would go back again if there weren't so many other restaurants to sample before leaving the Philadelphia area sometime next year.

1216 Spruce Street, across the street from Valanni and a half block down from Vetri. http://www.mercatobyob.com/. 215.985.2962

Christmas in California

For the past decade or so, we have alternated Christmas celebrations on the East and West Coasts.  This year was an exception ... a California Christmas was celebrated two years in a row.  And here is the reason why ... ENZO ... now a year and a half young.

I took many more photos than there is space to display them,  but that didn't stop me from posting them at Enzo's site.  See for yourself. When I get a few minutes, I will post a few movies on YouTube from the trip.

From Haddonfield to Gilmore's in West Chester

This was our first trip to Peter Gilmore's iconic French-American restaurant in West Chester, PA.  If we were a bit trepidatious about the Gilmore/LeBec-Fin connection and the "stuffiness" factor, our concerns were dispelled by our decidedly upbeat greeter, who I now believe may have been Peter Gilmores's wife Susan.  This personal touch was reinforced both by his wait staff and by Peter himself who emerged near the end of the first seating to greet his guests and engage in a bit of small talk with us.

My first impression was of a very intimate, romantic restaurant located in an 18th century town house on charming ... and surprisingly hip ... Gay Street.  While Vetri's, which is located in the first incarnation of LeBec-Fin on Walnut Street, is often described as the most romantic restaurant in the area, I think Gilmore's out romances it.  Another impression, reinforced by the many left arm bumps I received all evening, was how small the dining room is.  The room's waiters, who numbered five including the water/bread person, spent the entire evening squeezing by each other and trying to avoid my arm. For the most part, they were successful.  I would probably have ignored their presence if they hadn't been so solicitous ... make that overly solicitous ... constantly asking how we enjoyed the soup, the appetizer, the entree, and the dessert.  I generally appreciate the attention of the staff but find it bothersome when I have to interrupt a conversation with a fellow diner to answer the wait staff's questions. (And, to our waiter, Frank, lose the ma-DAAM ... it sounds tooo affected). The room's small size, despite carpeting and heavy window draping, contributed to a noise level  that was loud and somewhat annoying.

Now for the food.  First the bread.  My friend Frank and I believe the quality of the bread presages the quality of the meal.  Fortunately, Gilmore's passed ... maybe not as well as Blackbird (see below), but it passed.  We had already reviewed the menu online and found all the items available that evening, supplemented by a broiled lobster entree ($35) and risotto garnished with $3700-per-pound white truffles recently imported from Italy ($35).  We passed on both, although adjacent diners received their truffle orders with great gratings flourish. For appetizers, the four of us chose Crispy Calamari Tempura ($12),  Lobster Bisque flavored with Scotch ($15), Salad Compose  with four fried oysters ($13), and Asian-style Crab and Lobster Dumplings ($14).  Judy really enjoyed the fried oysters, and we split the dumplings among the four of us ... each had a different impression of the ravioli-like appetizer.  I found them a little bitter, but Pat thought the lemon flavor gave them an appealing bite.  Judy liked them, Frank thought they were okay. Frank enjoyed his calamari, which had an appealing chili-lime aioli sauce, though I found them a bit too salty for my taste.

For entrees Judy went for the Poulet Wellington ($25), and chicken wrapped in puff pastry complemented with mushroom duxelle in an appealing wine sauce. It was more than Judy could eat in one sitting, so it became dinner for her mother Sunday night. Pat and I went fish; she the Crispy Thai Tilapia ($28), and I the Panko Crusted Butter Fish ($28). Pat yummed her way through the Tilapia, and my butter fish was delicate, moist, and flavorful.  But the real topper was the dessert we all shared, a Coconut Cream Torte with caramelized bananas ($8).  It was extraordinarily delicious, with each element standing on its own, including a chocolate amaretto-like cookie base that provided a nice finishing touch.  The coffee was not Starbucks strong but mildly satisfying.  And the bill for four?  $193.98, without tip.  All-in-all, and excellent dining experience, well worth the trip from Haddonfield to West Chester.  Gilmore's is a BYOB located at 133 East Gay Street in West Chester, 610-431-2800.  Parking free on weekend at nearby municipal garage.  (10/20/07)

Postscript:  a few days after dining at Gilmore's, Frank, who made the reservation, received an e-mail thanking him and his guests for choosing Gilmores's and welcoming his comments and suggestions.  As you might suspect, I forwarded my review to Peter Gilmore.  I will keep you posted on his reaction, but the care and interest shown to his customers through his post-dinner conversations and use of e- mail bodes well for continuing the high level of food preparation and service that is Gilmore's hallmark (10/23/07).

Blackbird Singing in the Dead of Night

UPDATE: We had lunch at BB this past Saturday, January 12, and I remembered one of the dishes I liked so much at Max's ... the tiny and light gnocchi in blush sauce. You can go home again. Now back to an earlier review:

Well, it wasn't night, but it was Blackbird ...  Dining Establishment, that is. This is Alex Capasso's latest try at South Jersey fine dining, the last two being Misto and Max's, both of which we enjoyed and missed when they closed. Alex's new restaurant strangely enough is NOT in foodie-land downtown Collingswood but in WEST Collingswood closer to Camden than Haddonfield. My wife's family used to live in West Collingswood not more than 3-4 blocks from Weldon's Hardware, which now houses Blackbird D.E.  Interestingly, a new bistro is opening right across from Blackbird on Collings Avenue, an area best known for cleaning establishments, pizza joints and hair stylists. Maybe Chef Capasso is extending the reach and reputation of downtown Collingswood?  One thing is certain, it is easier to park here than downtown ... maybe that was the hook.

Judy and I like to go to lunch on Saturdays. Two of our favorite stops are Sapori and Bistro Di Marino, both in Collingswood.  In earlier attempts to lunch at Blackbird we were turned a way because 1) they hadn't started serving lunch and 2) they were closed for a special event.  After Craig LeBan's favorable review in the Inquirer we suspected we might have difficulty getting in without a reservation but that wasn't the case.  The restaurant was busy but not crowded.  Alex himself spent much of our lunch time opening doors, answering the phone and talking with customers (though not us).

Fascinated by what adjoining diners were eating (and what they were eating out of) we asked our waitress what it was and learned it was Blackbird's take on the Japanese Bento Box ($15), although Thai chicken spring rolls were as close as we got to Japan.  But no matter, we thoroughly enjoyed all five offerings (six compartments - one for mussel shells), including some wonderfully tasty pan seared tenderloin of lamb with fregola sardo, romaine salad with a creamy lemon parmesan dressing, and Blackbird macaroni and cheese, which Judy enjoyed (she's a H&H mac an' cheese girl).

For her entree Judy went for the turkey sandwich with tomato pesto and goat cheese ($8), and I had the Blackbird hamburger with gorgonzola cheese, tomatoes, and veal sauce ($9).  Both came with crispy pomme frites and were served on American Harvest rolls. Judy loved her sandwich and I think the Blackbird hamburger deserves to be included in LeBan's paean to the cheeseburger, "Cheeseburger I Love."  American Harvest bread is also served warm on the side with a fruity and fresh olive oil. Yumm. We skipped desserts and packed the sandwich portions remaining for the next day's lunch.  I did have a cappuccino ($5), which was not as hearty as I like it.

We snuck a peak at the dinner menu and noted that most of the items at lunch were available for dinner (though the same items wer in the $25-$29 range).  Lunch is light on fish but Capasso makes up for it at dinner.  I salivated over a polenta crusted halibut that sounded wonderful. We plan to return to to Blackbird again and again for both lunch and dinner.  BYOB (we enjoyed a 2005 Avalon Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon by way of Graton).  619 Collings Avenue, West Collingswood, 08107, 856-854-3444. http://www.blackbirdnj.com

(Note:  Send your own mini review to me and I will post some or all of it below mine ... whether you agree with me or not. Send to john.deangelo@temple.edu with REVIEW in the subject line.)

Some Recent Photos of Little "E"

We recently spent 10 days visiting family on the left coast in the east bay area.  What made the visit particularly exciting this time (we love visiting California anytime), was the opportunity to baby sit for our grandson Enzo.  Adrienne and Colleen would be celebrating Adrienne's birthday at a charming little inn on the Russian River, so they asked if we would mind staying with him for a couple nights.  Mind? We counted the days till we had him all to our selves.  Was this old couple up to the challenge?  Could they keep up with the recently mobile young man? Would they forget to feed him, forcing his parents to deny visitation rights forever ????  Well, everything went just fine.  We had a great time, and the boy escaped unscathed.  Below are some photos of our time with him.  Enzo is 16 months in these shots.  (10/12/07)

Enzo upon his faithful steed	Enzo with Mommy and Nonni
Nonni helping Enzo out of a tight spot	Nonni and Poppi give Enzo a bath

 See video of Enzo pushing his stroller with Nonni.

7 Days in California

In the middle of a very busy semester at Temple University, we decided to go West to see our grandboy, Enzo.  Of course we also wanted to see our daugter Adrienne and her partner Colleen, as well as Judy's sister Karen and husband Chuck, but were anxious to see Enzo before he started walking.  He is standing straight and crawling with gusto, so it's logical he'll put one foot in front of the other soon; he is 9 1/2 month, after all.  Not that I am rushing the walking thing ... I'd like him to crawl and smile a little bit longer.

Enzo Chasing Bubbles	Adrienne, Poppi and Enzo Swimming Class
Cousin Camy feeding Enzo	Mommy Colleen with Enzo
Enzo with Nonni	Favoring his namesake Enzo Ferrari

10 Days in Paradise

We needed a break so Hawaii beckoned.  Judy and I spent 10 glorious days on the Big Island near Kona with her sister Karen and husband Chuck. We flew from Philadelphia to Phoenix to Kona .... over 12 hours in the air.  We usually travel to San Francisco, visit family then spend a few days in Hawaii ... it kinda breaks things up, but a lowTravelocity fare and the opportunity to spend a few more days than usual overcame our resrvations about air time.

Karen and Chuck have a condo in Waikoloa on the naturally beautiful and lava blackened Big Island near the town of Kona, famous for its coffee grown above 1,000 feet elevation.  The coffee is so good I have it shipped every other month from the Kona Blue Sky Coffee Co.  Even with shipping, mailing it direct is cheaper than buying it at a mailand-side super market or specialty store.

Karen, Chuck, and Judy toast their last evening on their Lanai in Hawaii.	Sunset at Waikoloa	Judy outside Karen & Chuck's vaction home
John and Judy at little coffee shop near Waimea	Typical Hawaiin village in the Waimea area	Chuck, Karen and Judy on the sunset sailboat cruise
Geckos everywhere	Judy exercising on the beach

Unlike many of our vacations, this one was all about soaking up sun, reading, and relaxing.  No long drives to the volcano or camping overnight or shopping forays into the city.  Just relaxation.  Of course we did manage an evening at Roy's and we attended a beach party sponsored by a local realtor, but that was the extent of our adventures.  Well, that's not entirely true.  We did spend a gorgeous Sunday evening whale watching and drinking mai tais on the Mauna Lani sailing yacht.

I started each morning by going to the open-to-the-air gym, followed by a shower and dip in the infinity pool.  After that I pulled out my 800 page biography of Walt Disney, stretched out on the poolside chaise lounge, and read while the morning sun warmed me all over. Chuck and Karen ... and sometimes Judy and I ... walked a half mile to a Starbucks where we sat overlooking a man made lake and feeding the people friendly finches.

Be sure to click twice on the video panel above for a glimpse our our last night in Paradise with Karen and Chuck. (Note:  If the clip player above doesn't work, go to YouTube.)

Enzo Comes East

Although we have visited the little guy twice in California since he was born in June 2006, nothing compares with having our grandson visit us at home. Mommies Adrienne and Colleen traveled East to visit Colleen's parents in MD and the DeAngelos in South Jersey.  Enzo is now seven months old and on the verge of crawling.  He supports himself very well, sings and coos, and occasionally performs sit ups for an attentive crown of onlookers. While he was only here a week, his visit provided endless entertainment for the Blakelocks and the DeAngelos.  Catch a glimpse of his visit at my Enzo site. And If that isn't enough Enzo for you, go to Colleen and Adrienne's site http://www.colbystreet.blogspot.com/. 

Who Needs a Personal Chef Anyway?

Good question. As it turns out we do.  And if you entertain a lot or a too rushed to prepare healthy meals everyday, maybe you do too. While I still have a lot to learn about what a personal chef can  do for me, one thing I know for sure; finding an affordable, hi-quality, and accessible caterer is often a challenge. 

As it turns out, the husband of a former Temple colleague was starting his own food business. Peter Stamatacos has worked in a number of his family’s restaurants learning a variety of culinary styles. Since graduating from Penn State he has worked in some of the area’s top restaurants, most recently as Executive Chef at Morton’s Steakhouse.

I needed a buffet for twelve I could carry to my mother's house on New Year's Eve. Peter was only to willing to accommodate.  He plated and presented a morning repast consisting of mini crab cakes with mustard mayo, sausage bites with dipping sauce, Caribbean chicken sate w/apricot chutney, goat cheese and caramelized onion tartlets with balsamic glaze, donut-apple bread pudding, fingerling potatoes with aoli, roasted red bliss with rosemary, and a small fruit tray.  There were raves all around, particularly for the tartlets, chicken and bread pudding. You can learn more about Peter and his food operation by visiting his site, http://www.eatingoodcompany.com.

A Pretty Good Lunch Buffet

I needed to find a place to take nine very hungry techno employees that wasn't too pricey but would satisfy a group of big eaters, so I took them for lunch at Bistro DiMarino. It was a big hit.  For $10 per person, the restaurant offers an Italian salad selection (caprese, gorgonzola/pear, and caesar), a soup (pasta fagioli), cannelloni beans, a couple pasta dishes (vodka penne and gnocchi), and chicken served ways; marsala and parmigiana, and some very good bread. There is fruit for dessert (melon on this day) and a very good cappuccino after lunch.  Plus, the place is simply elegant with hardwood floors, big storefront windows, and exposed brick walls.  I recommend it highly. 492 Haddon Ave., Collingswood, NJ 856-858-1700.  BYOB   12/7/06

The November Election

By now we all know the Busch team took a thumpin'. In light of the Republican loss, Michael Smerconish posted a 15 point political beliefs platform, covering everything from where he stands on Bin Laden to his views on gays.  I believe he did this to answer critics who accuse him of being a liberal, so he decided to take the pulse of his own beliefs while challenging listeners to evaluate theirs.  See where you stand: http://www.mastalk.com/mastalk/vote.jspx.

Personally, I agreed with 11 of his 15 points.  See if you can figure out where I disagreed.  I guess that makes me a left-leaning conservative ... a libevator maybe?

A New Baby In Town!

On June 5, 2006, Adrienne DeAngelo and Colleen Blakelock gave birth to our first grandchild, Enzo McGraw Kazmar Blakelock.  To view this little Italianate boy wonder and learn more about him, click the photo at left.

Who is John DeAngelo and why is he occupying valuable web space anyway?

John DeAngelo is just a seasoned educator who  believes, perhaps foolishly, that some aspects of his personal or professional life might interest others.  Here you will find a range of views, reviews, news, and opinions, both personal and professional. You are welcome to e-mail me at jdeangel@temple.edu at work or  jdeangel1@comcast.net at home anytime  you want to make recommendations or comments or just say hello. Or you may visit my Fox School of Business at Temple University web site at http://www.sbm.temple.edu/biztech/. 

One of the things I enjoy doing is eating good food and drinking great wine.  So the first few paragraphs chroinicle some of my adventures in eating. I hope you enjoy my insights and opinions, and I welcome your feedback. 

Bancroft Acquisition

Please show your support and encouragement for purchasing the Bancroft property in Haddonfield by signing this petition: 

Petition Haddonfield Commissioners to Acquire Bancroft Property.

The DeAngelos Visit Paris

Read about Paris as seen through the eyes of John and Judy.

Casona Restaurant (4/10/06). More than a year ago, I saw a little piece in the Food section of the Philadelphia Inquirer about a Cuban restaurant opening in Collingswood, and that it would occupy a renovated corner Victorian. Thereafter, every time Judy and I drove through "Oppy-land", as a friend of mine once dubbed Collingswood, we tried to imagine where that building might be. Then one day I saw a sign at the corner of Knight and Haddon Avenues announcing the arrival of Casona, a new Cuban restaurant.  Well it took nearly a year, but Casona is finally open. 

As luck would have it, a group of us attended the "soft" opening on April 7.  Our reservation was for 7:00 PM, but we knew from the line outside and the crowds on the wrap-around porch, that it might be a while before we were seated.  How long?  8:30!  By then we were pretty hungry, but we soon learned it would be a while before we actually saw some food.   We didn't see a waiter until 9:00 PM, and our appetizer didn't arrive until 9:10. Now I know you are thinking, "why didn't they leave"?  Two reasons; 1) we were having fun (three bottles of wine and a six-pack of beer), and 2) everything was half-price!

We began with an order of Yuca Frita with guacamole and mojo garlic sauce, the national Cuban sauce or marinade.  The Yucca pieces were unusual ... they tasted like eggplant stuffed with cream cheese in a tasty mojo sauce.  But guacamole was no where in sight. We ordered for the table and were promised a second dish which never arrived.  But in its place to keep us calm, we received an order of Nacho-style Mariquitas, a delicious fried plantain dish with citrus marinated pork and seasoned ground beef.  There wasn't a crumb left.  The best salad was the Watercress with spring greens, grilled pair, blue cheese, and house dressing.  I'm not exactly sure what anyone else ordered because room noise was pretty high at this point, so I wasn't asking many questions, and I was too hungry to care anyway.

Then came the entrees; chicken fricasse, ropa vieja, and paella.  I got the paella with a dry fried saffron rice filled with seafood flavor. There were also tender mussels and clams, baby shrimp, and chicken pieces, all topped nicely with a lobster tail.  If there was chorizo as advertised, I missed it. The paella was authentic and delicious; the lobster was tough but tasty. Judy had the chicken fricasee, which sounds like a strange choice for a Cuban restaurant, but our server reminded us that they serve nuevo Latin cuisine, so I guess it's okay. The chicken was served falling-off-the-bone-tender in a tomato coulis with olives and tri-colored peppers. But it was to much to eat, so Judy left half of it on the plate, prompting a "didn't you like it" from our server (she did!). The last two entrees were similar, served in a mouldless mound of rice, though one was pulled pork in saffron rice (Lechon Asado) and the other, shredded beef with white rice and plantains (Ropa Vieja). Both were excellent but, as before, an item listed on the menu was missing ... black beans.  So our server returned several minutes later with a bowl of beans for the table. We were too full to try dessert but we did try a dark and rich coffee.

After three hours and twenty minutes we were done ... a record stay in any restaurant. The pain of waiting was ameliorated when we received the bill ... $56.20 for five persons (half price, remember?), which would have been about $23 per person at full price ... still a bargain. Being Collingswood, there are no liquor licenses, so  Casona is a BYOB.  The real opening was  the next night, Saturday, April 8.  While the food is excellent and the restoration beautiful inside and out, the owners and servers have  along way to go to solve their wait problem.  I say this because my wife and sister-in-law had been to Casona for lunch earlier in the week and experienced the same slow service problems.  I know Latin cultures have a mañana reputation, but I think the restaurant is simply unprepared to handle volume efficiently.   I am sure they will do better ... or they will be out of business and someone will fill that lovely victorian home with furniture for living rather than dining. 563 Haddon Avenue, Collingswood, NJ 0810, (856) 854-5555

Dueces Wild (1/30/06)

So it was Martin Luther King's Birthday, and I figured it would be a good time to take my work crew to lunch. We are eleven, including me, with food interests that vary from fries to fromage. Let's see, we have persons from India, Thailand, Puerto Rico, Uzbekistan, and one from outer space (just kidding, David). Finding a food joint to please such a varied group is always a challenge.  I had recently read about a place that opened in Northern Liberties, on the site of the old Schmidt's Brewery where Sylvester Stallone recenlty shot a scene for Rocky V ... or is it VI, I've lost count.

This place is basically a bar dressed in red, a near-miss rip-off of rat pack sensibility. I mentioned before that it was a holiday so I guess I should have expected less than attentive service from the wait staff-er ... there was only one person drawing bear at the bar and serving luncheon patrons.  This was undoubtedly the reason why our entrees arrived in stages; some of the group were finishing their main courses when appetizers were delivered to others in the party. What did we have? Several tried the $14 Kobe beef burger and liked it. At least two (including me) tried the meat loaf on ciabatta bread, one had the hanger steak ($11), and one soul tried the taco salad and pronounced it ordinary. Other than that one dissenter, everyone enjoyed their choices but without enthusiasm.  A boutique draft beer was the only real highlight (I will have to research the brand), especially since we were seated in a cold and drafty corner of the bar. All of this cost me $273 plus an automatic 20% gratuity for large groups, or $323 total!  For a few more bucks I could have had a better lunch at Brasserie Perrier ... and we would have been warmer. 1040 N. Second St., Philadelphia, PA 19123 - Northern Liberties (215) 413-3822

Philly's Fork (7/07/05)

When a foodie friend, cook book author, and Julia Child Food Arts Curator at COPIA in Napa, CA, visits Philadelphia, where do you take her for dinner that is casual enough for good conversation but high in food quality and presentation? Answer: Fork on Market Street in Old City.  Ellen Yin is owner and gracious hostess at this sharply decorated and very popular restaurant.  Since another dinner guest and colleague of mine at Temple University, Betsy Barber,  had worked with Ellen on the Book and the Cook in March, I thought my foodie friend, Linda Carucci, would enjoy meeting Ellen. I was also a bit nervous about providing the kind of dining experience that would impress and satisfy. No need to worry, Fork filled the bill. From the moment we walked in and were greeted by Ellen to the time we parted, the Fork experience was an evening to remember. 

The meal started with complimentary oysters dressed with fresh tomato, cilantro and onions, which we all enjoyed.  I selected an affordable New Zealand Selaks sauvignon blanc ($35), which was delivered in a screw cap bottle.  This is the third time in a month I had to assure dinner guests that screw caps are no longer reserved for Ripple and Night Train Express.  The menu is extensive but remains pretty constant from month to month.  I recognized many of the items from our visit over a year ago.  That's good, because we could recommend items we had enjoyed before.  Linda started with a hearts of palm salad with goat cheese ($8.50). Judy and I shared a truffled duck pate with cornichons, grainy mustard, and warm pear ($8.50). Other dinner guests (there were six of us) had the crispy duck confit with red lettuce, black mission figs, gorgonzola and lime vinaigrette ($9.50), and two tempura dipped soft-shell crabs with  Belgian endive- radicchio slaw, asparagus tips and Thai basil ($25), .

Dinner entrees included pan- seared halibut with dill beurre blanc, Belgian endive, wild mushrooms and spring potatoes ($26), pan-seared, pomegranate glazed duck breast over a corn and chick pea relish in curry sauce ($25), a grilled pork chop  topped with stuffed squash blossom over mashed potatoes ($24), and steamed whole striped bass with sautéed tomatoes, fava beans, and fennel ($24). We topped the meal with a key lime napoleon ($7.50) and a crispy crostada filled with blackberry coulis ($7.50). Like many restaurants, Fork adds am 18% gratuity for parties of six or more.

Now for the back story. Linda Carrucci, author of Cooking Secrets for Real World Cooks, is on a cross-country tour to promote her first book.  In addition to radio interviews with locals like Jim Colman (A Chef's Table, WHYY), Linda is doing cooking demonstrations at Sur La Table and book signings at libraries and restaurants from Naperville, TX to Marlton, NJ.  We learned at dinner her book is outselling Mario Batali and Alton Brown.  How's that for a first effort! We met Linda several years ago when I was researching cooking classes to give our daughter as a gift.  Like Linda, our daughter lives in Oakland, CA.  As a bonus (yea ... I'm sure she viewed it as such) we flew out to take the course with her.  It was during the Big Night craze, so we all learned to make timballo.   After that, she and our daughter become fast friends, so we see Linda when we visit California once or twice a year. When we heard she was visiting the Philadelphia area on her book tour, we made arrangements to meet her and her friends Susan and Steve at Fork.

Sweetie Pie Gone (7/06/05)

 Saturday morning (July 2) I rode my bike to Sweetie Pie (as I do every weekend) to buy scones and lemon bars.  This time, however, I was greeted with a sign thanking patrons for their support for the past two years. Sweetie was a victim of its own success.  The owner felt she was spending too much time away from her children.  She views this as a hiatus and expects to return to baking in some capacity soon.  Expect to see another baker take over;  if you shop the Collingswood Farmers' Market, you may know Two Tarts, the woman who will be setting up shop on Haddon Avenue.  Let's hope Tarts lives up to the quality reputation established by Sweetie Pie .

Glass-blowing and Good Food Too! (7/05/05)

Simon Pearce is a working glass blowing factory, retail shop, and restaurant located on the site of the former Lenape Inn in West Chester, PA. The building has been completely renovated to mirror their original mill in Vermont. As you enter the lovely wood and glass structure, you see craftsmen blowing glass vases, stemware, and bowls, with a the final product positioned prominently.  If you like it enough to buy it (bring lots of money), go to their retail store on the second floor where you will also find a lovely restaurant that looks out on the Brandywine through a restaurant-long window wall.

We were seated in the corner by the window. We watched as a family tubed the Brandywine River in the late afternoon.  We were treated to a bread basket of Irish oatmeal bread and a warm, crusty and delicious baguette. Our friends ordered mushroom bisque soup ($7), while Judy and I shared a pear and spinach salad. The pears were baked and served with a fried, crusted goat cheese wafer ($8). Delicious.  Our friends raved about their mushroom soup.  For our entrees, Judy chose the soft-shelled crab tempura appetizer as her main course ($24). Did I tell you Judy loves soft shelled crabs almost as much as veal parmigiano?  Our friends' entrees were pork tenderloin ("so tender" ... ($25) and cod baked with a horseradish crust served over mashed potatoes ("wonderful" ... $24). I had the roast duck served with cranberry risotto.  The duck was tasty and tender but the cranberry risotto was not a true risotto and was overwhelmed by the warm cranberry syrup ($25).  I was ready for homemade roasted apple crepes, but our friends wanted to return to their new digs to share a strawberry shortcake.  By the way,  they have a pretty good wine list with items that aren't terribly expensive.  I selected a 2003 Oyster Bay sauvignon blanc at $39.  Like most New Zealand SVs, it was lighter, less sweet, and more citrus-like than typical California sauvignons.
 

Overall, this was quality dining experience for a "destination restaurant." I would recommend Simon Pearce as a place to go if you want to combine a nice ride in the Brandywine countryside with a good dining experience. Call 610.793.0948 for reservations and directions.

Return to Birchrunville (6/6/05)

Birchrunville Store Cafe,  Birchrunville, Pennsylvania. Judy and I have made it a recent habit to motor to rural Chester County on our wedding anniversary (38 and counting).    Located in what was once a General Store and Post Office (the 1898 era P.O. is still active), this lovely and remote restaurant is run by French-born Francis Treciak.   Treciak's restaurant lineage includes Monte Carlo Living Room, Tacquet and  Provence in Haverford. Why is this place anniversary-special?  The quiet.  The porch and rocking chairs.  The sunbright Provence walls.  The bare wood floor with blue Oriental carpeting and Bentwood chairs.  Soft stone-washed napkins. But that's just the beginning!

Judy in front of the Cafe

First off, we were lucky to get a reservation at all.  The recorded message reminds the caller that Saturday nights are booked through July, but I persevered, left two messages asking to be put on their waiting list;  I was rewarded with a call on my cell the next morning.  We arrived a half-hour early but they were ready for us nonetheless.  We decided to have a glass of champagne on the porch before dining so we cold take in the beautiful Chester County countryside ...  its soooo quiet there. Once inside we were seated in the middle of the intimate cafe where we could watch everyone come and go (people watching is half the fun of going out, don't you think?). We were served freshly baked rolls and butter and given time to review the one page menu, which changes daily. You select from 6-8 appetizers and entrees, with an additional set of specials.  I chose the roasted venison special, wrapped in pancetta and stuffed roasted potatoes, walnuts, rosemary and sage, accompanied by tagliatelle  in butter and Thai basil ($27.00). OUTSTANDING! Judy selected the roasted free range rack of lamb with basil hazelnut crust and mashed potatoes and harcourt vertes ($26.00).  YUM! I started with an incredibly rich Langoustine bisque with port wine and saffron ($7.50).  Judy tried the spinach salad with sliced smoked duck, goat cheese and raspberry vinaigrette in a cheese basket ($8.50). Of course we brought along a 2000 Martinelli Jackass Hill zinfandel, a wine so precious the Martinelli family rations its distributions to club members only (a gift from my California in-laws). As excellent as the entrees were, save room for dessert.  I was tempted to order the croissant bread pudding and fresh peaches with crème anglaise (I am a sucker for bread pudding) but when our server said the pastry chef had just baked an apple tart with vanilla gelato (I'm a bigger sucker for buckles, bettys, and assorted fruit tarts), I couldn't resist the latter ($7.00) accompanied by a rich French coffee.  What an evening ... and the total?  $85.00 without tip!. Save this one for a special occasion, but remember; cash or checks only.  Open for dinner only, Wednesday through Saturday, http://www.birchrunvillestorecafe.com/. 610.827.9002.  (To catch my earlier review, go to INTERESTS.)

Haddonfield Restaurant Scene Changing

Tre Famiglia Ristorante

Fresh off our slightly disappointing visit to Haddonfield's new Christina's restaurant (see review below), Judy and I had good vibes about another new Haddonfield eatery, Tre Famiglia, 403 North Haddon  Avenue and former site of Little Tuna and Food for Thought. As is our custom, we arrived early Thursday evening without reservations and were seated immediately.  It was around 5:45 PM and there were few diners present.  But by 6:30 PM, the place was packed except for one lonely table behind us.

Our waitress, Cindy, was a member of tre Cippalone families, of whom 12 were present that evening.  It turns out that this Washington Township family, headed a 74 year old patriarch who still leads the kitchen staff, has been in the food business for a while, notably with Chip's restaurant in South Philadelphia that closed in the late 80s.

We were immediately served some fresh and crusty Italian bread accompanied by roasted garlic in olive oil and hot roasted peppers.  Ymmm!  But leave room for what's to come. We started with one of their appetizer specials, lollipop lamb chops in red red demi-glaze and pesto sauce over mixed greens.  Though normally three chops are served, the kitchen gave us four and split the appetizer when we noted we would share it. At $13 for two, it was a luscious bargain ... sweet, tasty and grilled to pink perfection. Everything is ala carte at Tre, so we opted again for a salad we could split.  Our waitress blessed our choice of Chip's Salad, an old family favorite based on grandma's special vinaigrette dressing and chock full of tuna, cheese, peepers, and anchovies mixed with greens. At $6.50 for two, another delicious bargain.

The pasta special was homemade spinach gnocchi with a white cream sauce, sun dried tomatoes, and lump crab meat.  I generally prefer lighter sauces and asked if it could be done in a pink vodka sauce minus the sun drieds, which was no problem for this accommodating kitchen.  Judy chose veal parmigiano, the standard by which she judges all Italian restaurants.  Her dish was accompanied by a lovely risotto and green beans, both beautifully al dente and the rice creamy as risotto should be. Where did the veal rank?  Just below  Radicchio in Old City and Nunzio's in Collingswood ... but not by much.  I compared the gnocchi favorably to the pillows I have at places like Max's in Pennsauken (smaller and a tad lighter) and Mezza Luna in  S. Philly (larger and richer).

We passed on desserts because they offer the standard Bindi desserts with the exception of their own Tiramisu.  We suggested they might want to consider getting desserts from the many fine bakeries in the area, one of which, Sweetie Pie, is a few stores south on Haddon Avenue.  With that small caveat, we pronounced this first time visit to Tre Familigia a success and vowed to return soon.  Total bill? $56.70 minus tip.  Tre Famiglia, 856-429-1447, BYOB, open for lunch daily except Saturday and Sunday, closed Monday.

I revisit Cristina's Restaurant

A couple weeks ago I received an e-mail from the PR agent for Cristina's Restaurant on Tanner Street in Haddonfield.  She had apparently read my review online, written shortly after it opened in 2005 (SEE BELOW). She invited me to return as the restaurant's guest, assuring me I would like it better since there had been a change in owners. What follows is my assessment of Cristina Ristorante Italiano one year later.  Cristina Ristorante Italiano (4/8/06)

We arrived at 7:00 on a Thursday night, a time when Little Tuna and Tre Famiglia, to name a few, were bustling.  Yet only two tables other than our own were occupied, a situation eerily reminiscent of our visit a little over  a year ago ... as a matter of fact, we were seated at the same table. We announced to our server that we were guests of the owner, and after a few minutes she returned saying that he was expecting us.

Not much had changed since our last visit, other than the easter-themed decorations in the picture window. I was as favorably impressed by the decor as I was the first time, although my wife and her sister thought the front window needed and elegant little tie-back curtain to set off and soften the window.  The meal started with a basket of warm dinner rolls that might have come from Cacia's Bakery in Blackwood. Unlike the last time, we didn't make the mistake of ordering a separate salad because we knew one accompanied the meal, but we did order an Insalata Caprese for the table (3).  My sister-in-law from northern California loves Caprese, and I read in a recent article on Cristina's about a couple Philadelphia Flyers who order it religiously. So how could I go wrong? After all, I have been eating sausage pizza at Rexy's ever since it was inhabited by Bobby Clarke and the rest of the Fly-guys.

The Caprese was a visual and taste delight.  It was served "high" with alternating layers of fresh mozzarella and tomatoes drizzled with EVOO. A few small leaves of basil decorated the dish, but it needed a few more to give it the aromatic freshness of that most distinctive of herbs. And my demanding relative from wine country loved it as well. We also had an Insalata Mista with mixed greens, tomato and Caesar dressing. While the dressing was good, I was a little put off by the chilled salad which had been prepared in advance and refrigerated until served; some of the greens were a little limp. Next I sampled the soup special, a green asparagus and shrimp soup that was subtle and flavorful with incredibly tender shrimp.  We brought a pinot noir and chardonnay that night but only one glass was offered to accommodate both.  Our entree choices were Risotto Granchia, Vitello alla Marsala, and the seafood special of the evening, two soft-shell crabs over angel hair pasta. My risotto had a generous amount of shrimp, crab, and bay scallops, although I don't think bays are as flavorful and sweet as those from the sea.  The risotto was tasty but not as creamy as I like my aborio rice.

My sister-in-law liked the taste of the veal but thought it was a little tough.  She did, however like the potato "croquette" with three cheeses that accompanied the dish.  My wife's crab dish was another story. Two crabs were pan-fried in garlic and olive oil.  It tasted to me as though the garlic got a little burned in the process, and when the chef deglazed the pan with wine to make the sauce for the pasta, that burnt quality came along for the ride.  Too much pasta and a little to acrid for my taste. The meal ended with a home-baked novelty, a cranberry cheesecake, which was excellent, but suffered when drizzled with a raspberry sauce that detracted from the cranberry's tanginess.

So here we are, one year later, and I am still wondering what the future holds for Christina. As I said in my first review, the restaurant aspires to a white-cloth and candle sensibility but remains a little inconsistent at delivering a premium or authentic Italian dining experience comparable to say, Sapori in Collingswood. I met the new owner, Joey, and he is a charming and earnest young man who is really trying, but still has a way to go.  The restaurant is neither "red" enough to qualify as a neighborhood joint nor special enough to earn a place among the stars.  I wanted to be impressed ... especially since I was a guest of the house ... but I still find Cristina's an incomplete dining experience.

Christina's (original review)

Last night (Thursday, March 24) Judy and I visited Christina's, a new Italian restaurant on Tanner Street in Haddonfield, NJ.  We arrived after work so no reservation was necessary, although judging by the crowd when we left, it wouldn't have been necessary even if we had arrived later. I have watched the conversion of this former beauty salon for months on my way to and from the hi-speed line.  Judging from the high quality wood trim and fixtures, it's obvious that Ulysses, the owner, put a bundle  of money into this enterprise.  The owner told us the restaurant was named for his daughter, an FBI agent who spends much of her time traveling the world.  He also told us this was not his first restaurant, although it may be his most upscale.  He and his son also own Pepperoni's Pizza in Burlington., NJ.

We wondered where this restaurant would fit on the up/downscale of restaurants in the Haddonfield/Collingswood continuum.  Would it be comparable to Villa Rosa or closer to Nunzio's?  Given the price range (entrees around $18-$23) we guessed it would be more like Nunzio's ... if the food quality held out.  We started with warm rolls from Del Buono's bakery, served with butter but no olive oil.  We asked and received. Thinking salads we ala carte, we ordered a Caprese salad of flavorless tomatoes but a respectable mozzarella.  After we ordered we were asked what type of dressing we wanted on the salad, and it turned out the balsamic vinaigrette we chose was similar to the dressing on the Caprese ... good, but repetitious.  We should have asked about the salad first.

I chose one of their specials, the cockle clams over homemade linguini in white sauce, and Judy selected )drum roll please) the veal parmigiana with ziti. The cockles, tiny and tender, were the sweetest clams I have ever had.  Their sweetness lent a flavorful ness to the light sauce that was unusual and hard to describe ... but delightful ... not at all like a typical clams over linguini dish.  And Judy, the world's greatest expert on chicken and veal parm, declared her dish as tender and tasty as any she had had in the region.

Before we completed our entrees, we were offered desserts from the pastry plate and assured they were all made in-house.  I selected a sfogliatella (which means lobster tail).  We loved it.  Unlike most we have tasted in South Philadelphia, this Christina's oozes a creamy whit filling from its crispy baked pastry exterior.

Now back to my original question.  Where does Christina's fit in the pantheon of South Jersey's BYOB's? Well, with a total bill of 50.85 (without tip), it's a little more expensive than Barone's, a little less expensive than Nunzio's, and more than Casella's on Kings Highway.  I would compare the food to roughly the same as Barone's, the menu more like Casella's and the sauce a cut below Barone's, Nunzio's and Trattoria DiMarino in Collingswood.  Given the good-not-great nature of their offerings, most patrons will make their easting choice on the value proposition.  Base on my evaluation, Christina's might have a hard time in Haddonfield.  I predicted Cafe M would fold.  Let's see how this one does.

Little Tuna Moves to Downtown Haddonfield (January 2005)

So successful it had to quit its quaint little space on Haddon Avenue, Little Tuna has taken up residence on the unit block of downtown Haddonfield in the space formerly occupied by Cafe M and Remi's before that.  Unlike Cafe M, which was nearly empty every evening I walked past on my way home, Little Tuna is bustling most evenings. Like their last space, the new Tuna is white, bright and sophisticated... and the food's not bad either (I believe that's called understatement). Marcus Severs owner and chef, formerly of Pelican Fish, 141 Kings Highway East,  856-7950888, BYOB

Collingswood Fast Becoming the Restaurant Row of South Jersey (1/22/04)

Sapori: It's Not Japanese

Over the past couple years, Judy and I have made several unsuccessful attempts to visit the La Locanda del Ghittone on Second Street in Philadelphia.  Once it was closed, another time it was recovering from a fire.  So if Mohammad can't come to the mountain, then the mountain should come to us, right?  Well, it has in the form of  Collingswood's  Sapori. No it is not Japanese ... that niche is left to Collingswood's Sagami.  Franco Lombardo ... formerly of  Ghittone, serves up the most authentic Italian food in the area.  As a matter of fact, a disclaimer on their menu cautions patrons that spaghetti alfredo or veal parmigiano (sorry, Judy) aren't prepared here because they are faux Italian dishes.

We have visited Sapori on three separate occasions.  The last two times made us wonder why we weren't knocked out on our first visit soon after they opened. We have been particularly impressed with the "unusualness" of their offerings, most recently evidenced in the Antipasto Saporito, which had items like garbonzo bean fritters or fig stuffed prosciutto or  a delicious eggplant caponata. Other items were more typical but noteworthy for their quality and freshness, roasted red peppers, soppressata shaved asiago cheese, and home-marinated green olives. As we often do, Judy and I shared the appetizer and it was plenty for both. I have had wonderful Italian specialties in the past, like rabbit ragout with papparadelle noodles, but this time I sampled the orecchietti with orata (Mediterranean sea bass) in red sauce, and it was delicious. Judy had quail stuffed with wild mushrooms over polenta triangles with white asparagus.  We passed on dessert, not because they didn't sound wonderful but because we had no room left.  601 Haddon Avenue, 856-858-2288, BYOB, on-street parking. UPDATE: Lately we have enjoyed complimentary digestivos ... choclacello and lemoncello ... outstanding.  Be sure to ask if none is offered.

John and Judy Celebrate 36 Years Together

Celebrations Week in the DeAngelo Household! As some of you may know, June 3 is a dual celebration day for John and Judy ... it is both John's birthday and the day John and Judy were married.  This year there were additional reasons to celebrate the most special week of June; nephew Todd Duca married Amy, and Judy and Bun hosted a surprise 60th birthday part for John.  The photo at right is the "kickoff" anniversary luncheon on June 3rd at Max's restaurant in  Cinnaminson, NJ. "Rivals La Campagne as the best of NJ for great food and ambience," John McNulty

Michener Knew the Chesapeake. Judy and I recently spent a mini vacation on the Eastern Shore of Maryland, long one of our favorite, close-at-hand getaways. We knew we wanted to be right on the bay, so an Internet search limited our options to a few Inns between St Michael's and Tilghman Island.  Luckily, we chose a great one, Wades Point Inn, http://www.wadespoint.com on the road to Tilghman Island, just outside of St. Michaels.  Read on ....

Premier IT Leader.  I am honored and humbled to have been selected as one of Computerworld's "Premier 100 IT Leaders for 2002" for my work in the Fox School of Business at Temple University.  Now in its third year, this awards program identifies leaders from both technology and business companies who have displayed exceptional technology leadership in their organizations, fostered ideas and creative work environments, promoted innovative approaches to business problems, and effectively managed IT strategies. This year's 100 include persons like Roger Berry, CIO at Walt Disney World, Roger Gray, CIO at Pacific Gas and Electric, Stephen Brown at Tenet Healthcare, and Craig Luigart at the U.S. Department of Education.   Only one other person from higher education was selected. The entire Premier 100 List can be viewed at http://www.computerworld.com/p100_2002.  1/11/02

Mary Fran Johnson, editor in chief of Computerworld,  presents Premier 100  IT Leader Award to John DeAngelo.

Who Needs Paper?

Here's some of what I said to Wired News.com when interviewed by reporter Katie Dean concerning the paperless classroom.
"The faculty believe that they are moving to a largely paperless classroom because they don't carry stuff to class," said John DeAngelo, associate dean for information technology at the Fox School. "In their mind, they've created a fairly paperless environment."

But in reality, students often print articles for their class, preferring to read on paper rather than on the computer –- especially if they are in a hurry, he said. "Despite everything we think about the e-generation, students are still pretty dependent on paper," DeAngelo said.  http://www.wired.com/news/school/0,1383,53747,00.html   8/14/02.

Read reviews of MAX'S in Cinnaminson, a new Collingswood BYOB, TORTILLA PRESS, Charlie Palmer's DRY CREEK KITCHEN in Sonoma, CA, RAMONA'S in Haddonfield (recently closed), and an update on A LITTLE CAFE in Voorhees, go to INTERESTS.
 

This page was last updated November 13, 2006. Copyright John DeAngelo.